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Beijing Shanghai Lao Fandian only sells hairy crabs from its own base at Yangcheng Lake established 13 years ago, ensuring every crab is pure in color, strong and meaty. Culinary master Xin Guoxiang supervises the steaming of the crabs and prepares a dip with slivers of ginger in the best vinegar from Zhen-jiang. Veteran gourmets will order a jar of warmed Shaoxing wine, paired with a pickled sour plum. The restaurant also offers gift boxes of crabs for takeaway. Crabs are available until the end of the year.

Beijing Shanghai Lao Fandian, 5 Sanlihe Donglu, 18/F Zhongshang Dasha, Xicheng district. 010-6858-7777