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Next to follow is the flammkuchen, or Swiss pizza. Originating from a region in France, this thin-crust pizza has an unusual twist－sour cream instead of cheese. The savory treat "gets its own life in Switzerland", with toppings ranging from "traditional" (bacon and onion) to "red" (bacon, onion, Swiss air-dried meat and arugula). I opt for the former－simple yet satisfying. The sour cream makes for a very delicate topping amid the bacon and onion, while the thin crust has a perfect crunch to it.

The flavors are not overbearing－Troesch is a firm believer in letting the fresh, quality food speak for itself: "For us, it's not about playing around much. It's going back to basics."

For entrees, we choose the veal sausage served with crispy rosti, the Swiss version of a potato pancake, and ratatouille, a colorful array of cooked vegetables. Troesch says the question of who invented sausage is open to argument, but "the Swiss invented the veal sausage for sure". The thick sausage is softer than expected, but the onion sauce makes it very flavorful.

Among other options for main courses: Zurich pork ragout, tender pork tenderloins in a light, creamy mushroom sauce.

For dessert we opt for glasses of thick hot chocolate, its rich density visible in the way it slowly pours, made with bittersweet Swiss chocolate. The small serving is filling with every sip－and all the while delicious.

Just a few months after the successful opening, Troesch is already looking to add a delivery service for the popular flammkuchen and cooking classes for those interested in a behind-the-scenes look at Swiss cuisine. Stay tuned.

If you go

Swiss Taste

8 am until midnight daily. Central Park, Outlet 101, Bldg 18, 6 Chaoyangmen Waidajie, Chaoyang district, Beijing. 010-6597-9229.

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